P650 Mods

P698 2006 New pics. These new pictures were taken on 6-2-2006 just before a Breaks VA ride. Some things havent changed but most have since the other My P650 photos were taken. After two years I though it was time for an updated P650 album. This album is kinda like an over view of things I have done. Most mods have their own folders for more detailed pictures. I hope you enjoy them. Be sure and check out Chapman Performance album for my new engine pictures and the MS intake manifold mod thats good for 4 rwhp. Last photo added 06-07-2006. 35 pictures.

Acewell3200 meter. This album is far from finished. I have had several request to put the photos on the site for viewing. Here is what I have for now with many more to come. To give a run down of the product it is an Acewell 3200 meter that can show the speed, max speed, avg speed, temperature, max temp, rpms and max rpms along with odometer and other things. I have the temp sensor hooked up and the tach working. The speedometer hookup will take some creative thinking but I have some ideas, just waiting on the magnet bolt for the Hall sensor. This unit along with others can be purchased at www.electrosport.com, which is the US distributor for Acewell. This unit is totally waterproof and shock proof. It retails for $180 + shipping. Take a look at the photos for more details about the individual features.*UPDATE* 8-22-2006 The meter is fully funcional now. The Hall sensor and magnetic bolt are mounted to enable the speedometer to work. No drilling is required and nothing permanent has been done. The speedometer works great along with the tach and temp reading. I know I didnt need a speedometer because I already have one but the Acewell also remembers top speed and average speed which I will find very useful. Last photo added 08-22-2006. 68 pictures.

My P650. This album contains various pictures of my P650. *UPDATE*, 5-16-2006 these photos are very old and will be updated soon. *UPDATE AGAIN* 6-7-2006 new pictures are up. I decided to leave this album in tact for comparisons between old and new Prairie. Last photo added 04-13-2005. 28 pictures.

P650 Oil Cooler. This has been a long time coming. I finally got all the parts together after the Trans Dapt experience. The Trans-Dapt adapter cannot be used. See pictures for reason why. But, I have found a combination that will let you install an adapter without having to mill down the adapter the way I did the one for the BF840. Again, see photos. The Perma-cool adapter in this album is the main piece as the cooler can be different depending on what type of atv you have. The Perma-cool adapter will work for the Prairies, Brute Forces, Twin Peaks and Arctic Cat 650 V-Twins. Last photo added 05-15-2006. 55 pictures.

FMF Full Exhaust. When doing the new engine I decided it was finally time for a new pipe. After debating for several days I decided on the FMF Power Core 4 Full system. This exhaust is quiter than the HMF pipe. Its on par with the Big Gun from what I remember. The following comes from the FMF website. The original and still best bang for the buck - the PowerCore 4 S/A. This is a race design muffler at a value price. It features our exclusive Hi-Flo square core to evacuate exhaust better and provide maximum core surface area for sound absorption. The Hi-Flo technology is evident in the stainless steel formed endcaps as well. For maximum tunability, the PowerCore 4 for a number of applications has a highly versatile modular rear endcap for optional performance accessories – a 2” or 1-3/4” endcap for smoother power delivery, a quiet core insert for the sound conscientious and a replacement spark arrestor screen. Some applications feature a fixed endcap and do not allow for optional performance accessories or a quiet core insert. For further information please contact our Customer Service Representatives by phone. Performance, versatility and pounds lighter than stock – all for an affordable price, FMF’s PowerCore 4…FEEL THE POWER Last photo added 06-08-2006. 9 pictures.

Primary Clutch Mod. This album was created on 9-21-04. Engagement rpms and engine braking are not effected by this mod. .100" was removed from the outer/movable primary sheave and .060" was removed from the cover plate. People say that .075 is all thats needed on the P700/Brute primary. I have rode 147 miles so far without any trouble and with an increase in top speed of 5 mph. I know do 74 mph with this mod along with the Dyna cdi, 4 degree offset key and Dalton Orange/Blue primary spring. Today is 9-30-04. I replaced the lock washers I was using with flat washers as spacers. These new washers are a perfect fit for the bolts and thickness increased from .075 to .090". Im done with the clutch mod and I highly recommend getting it done either this way or some othe way. *UPDATE* 4-27-05, the clutch is still going strong without problems. Excellent mod that is highly recommended to others. *UPDATE* 7-29-06, I always had a little what I call "belt slap" since doing the mod. I have added spacers between the outer sheave and spider that equals .120". This has eliminated the belt slap and tightend it up considerably. BUT, it has effected the engagement speed of all the primary springs. I have to add 3 of the same spacers under the primary spring to get the same engagement rpms back that I lost. I can do this withou the "belt slap" I had earlier. Look for these pictures at the bottom of the album. Also, if I did this mod again, I would cut the primary the exact same way, on the moveable sheave only. The belts natural resting place is next to the inner/fixed sheave. I think its best to remove material from the moveable sheave and let it meet the belt. I dont approve of changeing the angles on the sheaves. Some people cut the angles different but IMO this throws the belt out of alignment with the secondary and could have negative results on the belt and both clutches over time. Last photo added 07-30-2006. 76 pictures.

Ricochet A-arm Guard Modification. If you own or thinking about buying some Ricochet A-arm guard you might want to check out this folder for sure. After getting my Ricochet A-arm guards on I noticed they were lacking in the coverage department. I decided I didnt want to ride my P650 in the brush with this kind of protection as my luck would have it I would surely rip a CV boot. So, I decided to use the old stock a-arm guards as an extension. With this I gained over 1.5" more height and my coverage is now 100% instead of 25% as you will see in the photos.*UPDATE* 8-22-2006 I found out that Richochet has offered newer a-arm guards that provide more coverage and fit the Kawasaki steering knuckle recall. I called them today and for $10 shipping they are sending me out a new set of a-arm guards. So, this modification shouldnt be needed unless you just wanted more coverage. When I get the new a-arms in I will show the difference. Last photo added 03-12-2006. 29 pictures.

Ricochet Skidplates. I mainly bought these skid plates for oil filter and oil cooler lines when I add an oil cooler later on. Thanks to Kawiyowee for giving me a great deal on these Ricochet skidplates. I should have shown the mounting hardware but didnt. Personally I would rather mount the skids using the stock mounting holes but these came with their own mounting brackets that hold the skids to the round tube frame in different areas. While very secure the mounting process would have been much easier using stock mounting holes. Overall Im happy with these, only time will tell how they hold up. View pictures to see and get more details. Last photo added 03-06-2006. 12 pictures.

VDI Copperhead CDI. The VDI Copperhead CDI box is a programmable cdi box that replaces the OEM cdi box. It comes with two timing curves built in. A toggle switch on the cdi selects which one you want to run. Map 1 is exactly like the stock CDI. Map 2 has timing advanced like shown in my photos. BELOW COMES FROM VELOCITY DEVICES WEBSITE: Our modular Copperhead Ignition Core (CIC) allows the Copperhead to be platform, brand, and engine size independant. Future versions of the Copperhead will directly replace the stock igniter of ALL Arctic Cat, Bombardier, Harley Davidson, Honda, Kawasaki, Polaris, Suzuki, and Yamaha models and engines. This includes all ATV, motorcycles, and watercraft. Utilizing a high performance, advanced RISC processor, the Copperhead provides precise ignition triggering up to 12000 RPM, while processing at a lightning fast 16,000,000 instructions per second. Product Features: Multiple timing maps - to compensate for different levels of desired performance, fuel quality, and modifications. Supports dual timing maps for on the fly changes. Fully Configurable Timing Curves - adjustable from 0 to 12000 RPM in 50 RPM increments. The dual timing map feature is selected via the onboard toggle switch. The timing maps are programmed by your personal computer, and stored in the USB Memory Interface. The pod is loaded into the CDI on powerup. Multiple timing maps allows you to store a map for regular fuel and a second map for premium fuel, for example. In addition, our four configurable outputs allow you to trigger any negative grounded accessory at a particular RPM. This is useful to trigger a NOS system, and retard the timing to ensure safe operation, or for a shift light. For users with degree keys installed, the map can be retarded by the key amount to prevent detonation. The Copperhead is also shipped with a tachometer output, as well as a tether kill input. Tuneable features - allows the user to turn on/off safety features, such as low end timing retard, reverse over-ride, configure belt limp mode, etc. Plug and play - quick and easy installation utilizing factory harness and connectors -- no cutting or splicing required! Future proof - The Copperhead can be later upgraded to integrate Electronic Fuel Injection with our Fusion EFI kit (future development). Product Availability: The Copperhead DPM-550 is currently available for the utility version of the Kawasaki 650/700/750 V-Twin engine line (Arctic Cat, Brute Force, KVF, Prairie, Twin Peaks). NOTE: REJETTING IS NOT TYPICALLY REQUIRED. CERTAIN MACHINES (ARCTIC CAT IN PARTICULAR) COME JETTED LEAN FROM THE FACTORY AND MAY NEED TO BE JETTED FOR PROPER OPERATION. Go to http://www.velocitydevices.com/ to read all about it. Last photo added 01-24-2006. 46 pictures.

KEBC 2wd 4wd light fix. A lot of guys are discovering the beauty of running without the KEBC engine brake hooked up. The simplest way is to just remove the KEBC fork which I should have showed how to do but didnt take pictures of that. Other people may want to unplug the KEBC or remove the KEBC all together. When you do that or if it quits working the 2wd/4wd light will flash on the display. The follow pictures shows two different ways to wire up a relay switch to stop the 2wd/4wd from flashing. I want to thank and give full credit to FourWheelFury for first discovering this relay mod. I have pictures of his in "Other Peoples Mods" folder. FourWheelFury did his installation behind the handle bar pod. I also want to thank BigN8 of the forums for helping me trouble shoot that bad relay switch I had and for providing instructions on the installation that I did. BigN8 explains how the relay works and has pictures also. Below came from BigN8's website. How it Works When in 2WD, the switch sends a - signal to the controller through the green wire. The controller sends no signal to the indicator as none is needed for the 2WD light to remain on. When the switch is in the 4WD position, the green wire has no signal and the controller sends a – signal to the indicator to turn on the 4WD light. How to Bypass The wires needed to do this are located at the actuator controller under the seat. The wire colors are green (signal from switch) and green/white (signal to indicator). The green/white wire needs to see ground when in 4WD and nothing when in 2WD; this is exactly backwards from what the switch outputs to the controller. A Single Pull Double Throw (SPDT) relay is needed to change the output around so the when the switch sends a – signal to the relay and controller, the relay sends no signal to the dash indicator and when the switch sends no signal to the relay, the relay sends a – signal to the dash indicator. You can visit his site at http://n8.gotdns.org *UPDATE* Just a reminder, this is only a fix for the flashing light. When you flip your handlebar switch to 4wd the light will show immediately. But, the front diff will still be in 2wd until you start moving and make it engage 4wd. By all means, DO NOT put it in 4wd with the thumb switch and gas it hard. Make it engage easy just like you always did. Last photo added 03-11-2006. 30 pictures.

Shindy Tach Temp Guage. This is a Daytona Digital tach and temp guage. It is made in Japan by Daytona corp and imported by Shindy. Its called a Daytona Digital Tach and Temp meter, part number SD 17-860. This tach is hooked up the same way the other Daytona Digital tach is thats shown on the BF 840 with the exception of the added water/oil temp sensor. I had the other tach for over 2 years before letting it go with the BF 840. I was so impressed with it, I was going to buy another and the salesman told me about this new tach so I bought it. View the pictures to see some of the features it has.*UPDATE* 6/7/2006, this guage quit working today. I was told by Shindy that Daytona corp of Japan has stopped production on this unit because it proved to not be as water resistant as the older Tachometer. Today is 6/19/2006, P3Racing where I bought the tach has issued me a full credit including shipping. For this, I highly recommend this company to anyone for their outstanding business practice. Last photo added 02-12-2006. 19 pictures.

Progressive Springs. I sold the Elka because I was planning on selling the P650. The P650 never sold so I ended up selling the BF840. Now Im back to riding the P650 again and without the Elkas. I decided to give the Progressive Springs a try for a couple of reasons; one, they were $147 shipped from Parker Yamaha in Parker, Arizona, two, I wanted to be able to compare them to the Elkas to know how they compare and be able to give useful advice to someone wanting to know the difference between the two. **UPDATE** Today is 2-11-06. On my ride with the Progressive springs I noticed the stock retainer clip alone wasnt enough to hold the springs in their place. So, I cut the stock plastic covers down to 2 inches and reinstalled them back on the springs. The stock covers must be used when using the Progressive springs. Last photo added 02-12-2006. 22 pictures.

EBC Brakes and installation. These brake pads were given to me by Patrick Saunders of ATVPT.com for evaluation. Visit that website for various pictures and product test for atvs. The cheapest place these pads can be bought from that Im aware of is Rockymountainatv.com. *UPDATE* After a real ride with these pads they work good. Longevity has yet to be determined. I had some EBC pads for my old Kodiak and they didnt last long at all. If I had to buy pads myself I would have bought Tusk brand from Rockymountain atv. *UPDATE* 6-7-2006 Pads squeel bad when wet. First time my front brakes have squeeled since buying the P650. *UPDATE* 6/21/2006 After comparing my EBC brakes and a friend of mines OEM brakes on his P650 the OEM brakes are much better. Do not buy the EBC brand like I have. They work but OEM brakes are better. Last photo added 03-06-2006. 23 pictures.

Oury Grips. These new grips are Oury's new clamp on style grip. I highly recommend these to anyone. The O.D is large enough to keep gloves from getting in a bind. Rubber is soft. Most importantly the grips will not move or shift and can be transfered from one set of handlebars to another very easily. I should have taken more pictures but got in a hurry and started putting the chrome end pieces on before thinking. Last photo added 10-25-2005. 6 pictures.

Answer Protaper bars and Rox Risers. This album contains pictures of the my new Answer handlebars with Rox Risers for the mounts. I have never liked the Prairie handlebar bend. After having the 840 and getting a feel for it I decided to make my P650 feel as close as possible. I highly recommend this setup as it sets the bars higher and back to you in a comfortable wrist position. It will make you think you are on a different atv. *UPDATE* 11/1/05 The Rox dash mount has been added. This give is a much better look and enables me to pull the bars back closer to me. New pictures start with 16. This is the same dash mount that is used on the BF840 and will work on all Praire 650/700, BF 650/750, Suzuki TP 700 and the Arctic Cat 650. Last photo added 10-31-2005. 24 pictures.

Ball Joint and Front Diff Oilseal Replacement. *UPDATE* 3/31/05 I added 12 more pictures of the wheel bearing replacement. These photos show how to replace the ball joint and left side front diff oil seal. The ball joint was a little rough getting out and back in. The oil seal was a bugger getting out, you had to be real carefull with the oil seal not to damage anything. Getting it back in wasnt to bad after I found a can of corn to help me out. The This repair was much easier than the swingarm bearings. Last photo added 03-31-2005. 53 pictures.

Rear Axle Seals. I had a long time leak on the left side of the rear axle. After taking it apart I decided to just clean it up and grease it and see if it would work. If not I will buy a new one and fix it later. *UPDATE* 8-6-2006, well its been almost 2 years now since photos 1 to 13 were added. Photos 14 and later were taken on 8-3-2006 and I decided to replace the two seals. Check for parts needed and how to photos. This is a very easy and inexpensive repair. Last photo added 08-06-2006. 45 pictures.

Belt Adjustment Pictures. This album shows how easy it is to make a belt adjustment. This can be done in 30-45 minutes "but not on the first try". I highly recommend the service manual for reference. For your convenience I have listed the service manual steps in my other section called P650 Service Manual. This adjustment will apply to the Kawasaki Prairie 650/700, Suzuki Twin Peaks 700, Arctic Cat 650 and the Brute Force 750. Last photo added 07-30-2006. 43 pictures.

Front Driveshaft Seal Replacement. Finally finished this last job of replacing seals. This was a fairly easy task. The seals came out easy and went back easy. Much easier than the front axle seal. Last photo added 10-13-2004. 22 pictures.

Swingarm Bearing Replacement. At 1740 miles I decided to check my swingarm bearings. Some play was present so I decided to go ahead and change them before they got me on the trail. I do light mud riding, mostly mud on the trail. If you mud ride a lot you should check your bearings more frequently, say around 1000 miles. If you are a heavy mudder I would check them every 500 miles. These photos hopefully will guide someone through the process and make it easier. It also shows what the inside of what the rear brakes look like. Last photo added 09-07-2004. 69 pictures.

Carb Heaterhose Mod. This album shows the anitfreeze lines that run to the carbs to heat them up. A person really doesnt need this unless they ride in zero degree weather. Kevin Johnston, a GNCC Unlimited Utility racer told me about this and how to do it. He said even the Kawasaki reps told him to do it and everyone on the GNCC circuit does it. It will make your carbs run cooler and therefore produce more power. I also have some other pictures I added to this folder. If you have any questions just ask. Last photo added 08-18-2004. 15 pictures.

Degree Key Install. This is some pictures of the 4 degree offset key for the P650/700. The key came from Diamond G Racing and sells for $16+shipping. Before the installation I was not able to raise the front tires at 5 mph. Now my P650 will raise the tires around 3-4' range for 20' or so. This is a noticable seat of the pants improvement for me. The installation wasnt bad. I could do it a lot better a second time. The upper plastic is not neccessary to remove. I also suggest removing the black plastic fender. Look for other tips on the pictures. I hope you enjoy these pictures and decide to do the install.*update* 1/14/2007 I dont recommend doing this. Looking back and re-evaluating it all...the hassle is not worth the performance gain, especially with the VDI Copperhead available. Dont get me wrong, this mod may help "you, the reader" but I know I will never install another one. Last photo added 07-20-2004. 19 pictures.

My Elka Springs. Here are the Elka springs I installed on my 02 Prairie 650. The springs were $225 delivered. *UPDATE* I am now hearing that artdesignedmotorsports has increased their price to $265. You may find these cheaper somewhere else now. A lot of guys are changing their stock springs to the Elkas. If you decide to do this, it will be like riding a different atv. The nose diving in corners is gone and the down hill off camber stability is greatly increased for safety. Last photo added 05-22-2004. 8 pictures.

Operating Temperature Reduction Mods. This folder shows the mods that I have done that HAS 100% reduced my fan running and reduced my operating temperature. Nothing else I have tried has worked as well, which includes the Dynatek CDI, DG3 module, DG original Hole Shot module and Redline Water Wetter. Last photo added 07-30-2006. 17 pictures.

Cold Air Intake Mod. In my quest for not only more air but "COOLER" air I decided to do this mod after thinking about it for awhile. Its not hard but takes time and patence along with the right tools to make it look good. *UPDATE* I have rode with this mod through rain all day and downpours at times. It has never missed a beat. I highly recommend this mod as it will enable you to provide more fuel. At this point you will need some type of after market exhaust or do the muffler mod. Also, this mod WILL NOT work with the 2002 P650 air box design, reason being, it will let rain drop directly onto the airfilter and possibly get suck through and down the intake stacks. *UPDATE* 7-29-06 Rode through very heavy rain again withe excellent results. After today Im throughly convinced that rain does not effect this mod. Last photo added 09-27-2004. 29 pictures.

New Airbox and Mods. This album shows a 2003 and up airbox on my 2002 P650. Also, I have the parts list for the modification if anyone wants to do it. As of today "8-15-04" I havent had a chance to evaluate this mod. I do know after all the mods I did to it I have excellent throttle response with 150/148 jetting. I can add more pictures of the 2002 airbox if anyone wants to see them. *UPDATE* Today is 04-27-05. I see an evaluation is long over due. I highly recommend this conversion. I know I did some other mods and this airbox mod is where it starts at. It seals better and offers better air flow. If it didnt then why did Kawasaki re-design it? Last photo added 08-06-2006. 15 pictures.

Airbox Update. I know everyone knows how to clean their air filter and this album is not about that. It is to show the uniformity of dirt filtered and how the airbox mod and Cold Air Intake mod worked. Last photo added 09-21-2004. 18 pictures.

Jetting 101. This folder was created to identify carb parts. It is not intended to teach jetting. A lot of people seem to be new to jetting and rightly so if they dont have any experience or simply new to atv's. Last photo added 08-07-2006. 14 pictures.

DG3 Install. This is some pictures I took while installing the DG3. If anyone wants the instructions scanned I would be happy to do so. The install was simple. I highly recommend the DG3 module for a nice performance gain. Last photo added 06-09-2004. 8 pictures.

Other Peoples Mods. I have had decided to start a new folder for other peoples modifications. If you have a modification that you have done and it helps the Prairie 650/700, Brute Force 750 or Kodiak send me a picture and I may put it on. The mod should be unique and provide performance and/or reliability improvements. One example that wont work is tires. Anyone can get tires. BUT if you have some Center Caps for the ITP C-Series wheels that ARE NOT from ITP then that would be ok. Last photo added 03-28-2005. 13 pictures.

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